The fuse block access door is on the driver’s side edge of the instrument panel. Year of production: 2003, 2004 Instrument Panel Fuse Block GMC Yukon – fuse box – instrument panel The battery never seems to go above 12.3 and has been 11.8 or so.GMC Yukon (2003 – 2004) – fuse box diagram I drove it less than 10 miles when I was alerted that the battery was down, by my radar detector. I rebuilt the front cylinders for the Vario roof and then I fixed the dome light and the batteries to the key. I got a trickle charger at the same time and it has been on the trickle charger ever since. So I got a new battery about a month ago. The battery seemed to be having a little problems so I took it in and it supposedly had an internal short. The instrument cluster wasn't working, but replaced fuses and cleaned the fuse terminals, which seemed to fix that, as well as a rear tail light. I bought the car in June and drove it a bit then. #2003 sl500 battery isolator relay fault how to#I can't seem to locate much of anything about the anti-theft, or how to access it or its battery. I think that was for the 500sl, but not sure of the year. It said this was in front of the passenger air bag. I read somewhere that a battery for the anti-theft can go bad, causing a big drain. I can't find out much about the anti-theft. I can't image clock causing this much of a draw. Disconnected wire to alternator and no change. I read where clock, anti-theft, and alternator are the only things not on fuses. I pulled all fuses no obvious drain detected. #2003 sl500 battery isolator relay fault drivers#But still confused about why drivers door and trunk don't lock/ unlock with remote or key. Pump is not running, so I have eliminated that. The front one seems to be immune from issues, so just care for that like you do any car. If you do not drive the car regularly you have to keep a trickle charger on the rear battery. Plus - starting is less of a problem than ordinary cars. You can spend many thousands of dollars over really minor issues with ABC equipped cars. With age none of these parts hold pressure for more than a few days - so the battery has to come into play. The ABC tries to level itself whenever the car is disturbed. Every time you open the door on the car the large ABS/SBC pump motor goes on to charge the accumulator. But it is the stuff that the car constantly monitors - the pressure in the Brake and ABC system that are the really big draws. The sound systems draw a lot - 400 watts original, I have an 850 watt in my SL500 now. The rear battery warning generally leads to the discovery of other issues.The Auxiliary Battery powers "ELECTRICAL CONSUMERS" - these are the heavy hitters that no starting battery could ever hope to power. Just my two bits on this old thread but still a common problem, especially with the SL's. I had no issues with the S500 after the re connection. I am going to disconnect all power to the car via the two batteries over night and reconnect in the morning.īy doing this will I have to have the keys re programmed or any thing else? I only use the car summertime I purchased I new battery yesterday thinking that the old one was tried and due for replacement. Now I own a SL500 2005 and yes I have a battery drain (intermittent) because it's been getting worse over the last 6 months. #2003 sl500 battery isolator relay fault install#I removed the battery but did not install the new one until the next day.īy leaving the car without power over night seemed to resolve the drain. I replaced the battery and hey presto the drain stopped. I did this until the replacement battery needed to be replaced again around 4 years after purchase. So I resigned myself to disconnecting the negative lead from the battery and reconnecting when I needed to use the car. It was unresolvable without spending more than the car’s value. Within a week of the car standing I had a flat battery. Everything was working fine for six months then one morning the car battery was flat.
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